[This tutorial originally appeared on the birch fabrics' blog in November 2013]
This hooded top is designed to be worn over a t-shirt. The hood is lined, but you could make the size up and have a fully lined top for a super cosy look!
You will need:
- 1.5 metres organic cotton fabric in white breasted nuthatch
- 0.5 metres organic cotton flannel in twigs teal
- Organic cotton sewing thread
- hoodie pattern (ages 2-6 years)
[n.b. this is the first time I've made a multi-size pattern that wasn't just for me to use, and it hasn't been extensively tested, so it isn't perfect. Please email me with any feedback so I can make adjustments in the future]
From main fabric cut:
- 2 sleeves
- front of top
- back of top
From flannel cut:
- placket (2″ wide by 5.75″ long plus same size medium weight iron on interfacing)
Place front and back pieces right sides facing, shoulders aligned and sew shoulder seam (all seams are 1/4″ unless otherwise stated). Finish with your chosen method.
Put the main hood pieces right sides facing. Sew and finish the main seam. Repeat for lining hood.
Iron interfacing to placket. Mark on interfacing using dressmakers chalk or fabric pencil: 1/4″ line away from top and 1/2″ away from the bottom of placket. now mark a 5″ line down the centre of the placket between these two lines and a line 1/2″ either side of the centre line. draw another line 3/4″ away from the top of placket. mark the centres on either side of this line. Draw a line from these centre marks to the line 1/2″ away from the bottom of the placket. This will give you a nice ‘v’ mark. now join from the top of the ‘v’ to the line that is 1/4″ away from the top of the placket (tricky to describe, but use the photo below, to guide you as well)
Pin in place (right sides facing) and then sew the placket, catching the top seam allowance (as pictured).
Sew top to hood.
Pin lining of hood to main hood, right sides facing. sew around front of hood. Cut open placket.
Turn hood, right side out and press. Press the lining hood seam towards hood and fold the lining hood seam allowance under and press. You may also like to sew this in place. Fold placket to wrong side of top and fold under seam allowance for placket. Press and pin in place.
Top stitch around front of hood and placket as one continuous line. Stitch in the ditch along the neck seam.
Attach sleeves to top and finish with your chosen method. Press towards sleeve.
Fold under Hem of top by 3/4″ press and then fold under 3/4″ again. Top Stitch 1/2″ and 3/4″ away from edge. Repeat for cuffs. or trim 1.5″ from sleeve length and add a 2″ band of contrast material. Press the seam allowance towards sleeve. Now fold the contrast band in half, press and then fold under again so that the seam allowance is concealed and the contrast band sits within the top. Top stitch as above.
I love the bold graphic print of this design, as a top! I hope you enjoy making your Rohan Hoodie too!
This pattern was originally made using the Birch Fabric Fort Firefly collection.